In the realm of fashion, the archetype of the lone genius designer has long prevailed, perpetuating a narrative of individual brilliance and creativity. However, within the vibrant landscape of Indigenous fashion, a powerful shift is underway. Indigenous designers are stepping into the spotlight not as solitary figures, but as collaborative leaders, challenging the notion of the heroic, lone genius and redefining what it means to create within a cultural context.
For centuries, Indigenous peoples across the globe have been the custodians of rich cultural traditions, including intricate textile techniques, vibrant patterns, and symbolic motifs passed down through generations. Yet, the mainstream fashion industry has often overlooked or appropriated these traditions without proper acknowledgment or respect. In response, Indigenous designers are reclaiming their cultural heritage and asserting their presence in the fashion world on their own terms.
One of the most striking aspects of Indigenous fashion is its emphasis on community and collaboration. Rather than adhering to the Western model of a solitary designer working in isolation, Indigenous designers often work closely with their communities, elders, and fellow artisans, drawing upon collective knowledge and expertise. This collaborative approach not only honors Indigenous traditions but also fosters a sense of belonging and empowerment within the community.
Take, for example, the work of Bethany Yellowtail, a Northern Cheyenne and Crow fashion designer based in Los Angeles. Yellowtail founded her label, B.Yellowtail, with a mission to celebrate and uplift Indigenous artists and artisans. Central to her practice is collaboration with Indigenous creatives, including beadworkers, quilters, and seamstresses, whose skills are integrated into her designs. By showcasing the talents of her community, Yellowtail challenges the myth of the lone genius and highlights the collective creativity inherent in Indigenous cultures.
Similarly, the collective effort is at the heart of the fashion label “Alter-Native” founded by Cree-Métis designer Sage Paul in Toronto, Canada. Paul’s designs fuse contemporary aesthetics with traditional Indigenous elements, paying homage to her heritage while pushing the boundaries of Indigenous fashion. However, what sets Alter-Native apart is its commitment to collaboration with Indigenous artists, activists, and elders, who contribute their knowledge and perspectives to the creative process. Through this collaborative approach, Paul challenges the hierarchical structure of the fashion industry and promotes Indigenous self-determination.
In addition to fostering collaboration within their communities, Indigenous designers are also forging connections across cultural boundaries. By engaging in dialogue with designers from diverse backgrounds, they are challenging stereotypes and promoting cross-cultural exchange. This spirit of collaboration was evident at the inaugural Indigenous Fashion Week Toronto, where designers from Indigenous communities across Canada and beyond came together to showcase their work and celebrate their shared heritage.
At the heart of this collaborative ethos is a deep respect for Indigenous knowledge systems and ways of knowing. Unlike the Western model, which often prioritizes individual creativity and originality, Indigenous fashion embraces collective wisdom and intergenerational learning. Many Indigenous designers draw inspiration from traditional stories, ceremonies, and teachings, infusing their designs with layers of meaning and symbolism.
For example, D’Arcy Moses, a Nehiyaw (Plains Cree) designer based in Saskatchewan, incorporates traditional teachings into her clothing line, “D’Arcy Moses Designs.” Each garment tells a story, reflecting the interconnectedness of all living beings and the importance of honoring the land and its resources. By grounding her designs in Indigenous knowledge systems, Moses challenges the notion of fashion as mere surface decoration and invites deeper reflection on our relationship with the natural world.
Furthermore, Indigenous designers are reclaiming control over the production process, prioritizing sustainability, ethical sourcing, and cultural integrity. Many Indigenous fashion brands prioritize local materials and traditional techniques, supporting Indigenous artisans and fostering economic self-sufficiency within their communities. By centering sustainability and cultural authenticity, they challenge the exploitative practices of the mainstream fashion industry and offer an alternative model rooted in respect for the Earth and its inhabitants.
Indigenous fashion designers are challenging the myth of the heroic, lone genius and embracing a collaborative approach that celebrates community, culture, and connection. By drawing upon collective knowledge, honoring Indigenous traditions, and prioritizing sustainability, they are not only reshaping the fashion industry but also redefining what it means to create with integrity and authenticity. As the voices of Indigenous designers continue to be amplified, their influence will undoubtedly inspire positive change, both within the fashion world and beyond.
